Heading south . . .

This morning took us into mountain country, and roads not for the light-hearted. Saddle-backs to climb, and river gorges to sink into. And bends in rivers. Not just a bend in any river, but the Buller River. Terrain dictates as usual, the river doing a 360 around the hill . . .



. . . .but the road has no place else to go, except into the hill, at Hawks Crag.





Our road took us through Westport and Carters Beach on the Tasman Sea – what better place for a cappuccino.



Then onto the so-spectacular West Coast – which just demands to be photographed at every bend in the road.



High tourist season denied us a bed for the night until Punakaiki, where we found the eco-friendly Punakaiki Lodge, located right on the beach – and a beach with sunsets ‘par excellance’





Just up the road – Pancake Rocks – a Jurassic formation of limestone that has defied waves and wind for milleniums – but is gradually wearing away. Well, not in our lifetime perhaps.





Oh dear, Jeannette, do the next couple of pics of a massive tidal blow-hole ring a bell ?? (couldn't resist taking these - sorry Serge)





Together at last . . . . courtesy of fellow travellers . . . . all appreciating the views.

Destination - South Island

The ferry between the Islands runs out of Wellington, the capitol of New Zealand, across the Thomas Cook Strait, into the Queen Charlotte Sound to the town of Picton. The Cook Strait is the confluence of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea, and depending on sea and weather conditions, one of the roughest, most violent stretches of water for a ferry crossing in the world. On our crossing, sea conditions were posted as ‘moderate’, which for the 3½ hour trip was fine by us, as the ship still lurched around disconcertingly. We agreed we wouldn’t want to experience anything more than ‘moderate’.

Our day for the trip was warm but cloudy. Still, the countryside on our journey up Queen Charlotte Sound to Picton was spectacular. By comparison, the crossing on the ferry to Picton Ontario will never be quite the same again.





Everyone told us the South Island is quite different from the North. It is. The views are just as awesome, but the roads are even more challenging. Geography dictates of course, when it comes to building roads. But even so, you’d think that road builders here took some perverse pleasure out of constructing two lane blacktop round the most precipitous hills and mountains . . . . the Monte Carlo Rally has nothing on this.

Road conditions are probably also why drivers here are so remarkably considerate and polite. “Giving way” is a must-do, with all of the single lane bridges. That creates a super awareness of the other driver. With the majority of roads two lane, it also means passing slower drivers . . but with the constant twists and turns, not so easy to accomplish. But there are strategically located stretches of passing lanes, and where there is no room for them, there are ‘slow vehicle bays’ where drivers do actually pull into and let others pass. Most civilized !



We’ve discovered there are long stretches of road without petrol stations, and even longer stretches without accommodation . . .we’re becoming quite familiar with ‘no vacancy’ signs. A far cry from the bustle of downtown Wellington and the up-market Novotel, we finally found room at the Murchison Hotel, slap dab in the centre of, well, not exactly bustling Murchison (pop 201).

Where else can you walk down the main street without fear of being run down? This small hamlet is wedged between the Matiri and Brunner Ranges, offers a restaurant with excellent home cooking, and a hotel (built 1845) with comfortable accommodation. What more could one ask ?

South - to Wellington

En route to Wellington, and time to stop for the addictive morning cappuccino – New Zealand probably has more coffee shops per capita then anywhere else in the world. This time, adjacent to yet another stunning beach – Waikanae – ideal for sipping ones morning cup of Jo.





And so into Wellington, a fascinating mixture of old and new, and cricket, and incomplete without a trip up the mountain on the Wellington Cable Car. And there was a double bonus. Not only the view over Wellington out to the Cook Straits, but the opportunity to stroll downhill through the Botanical Gardens, with its displays of ‘blue flowers’, hydrangeas, giant ferns, succulents, and hugable Kauri trees.

Walked our feet off that day . .but up early the next – for the ferry to Picton and the South Island.

On the road

On the road again, and heading south all the time, destination Wellington and the ferry for the South Island.

Huka Falls just north of Taupo, then onto Mission Bay on Lake Taupo, formed within the cone of an old volcano and depth unknown, the largest body of freshwater in Australasia.



We’re into the rhythm of the road now, picnic lunch normal at one of the many roadside spots. Local produce (veges) in abundance . . .avocado season for sure – a dozen ripe ones just off the tree for $3 !







SH1 (State Highway) rises onto the Rangipo desert with Mt. Ruapehu on the horizon, creating spectacular views, a foretaste of what the South Island must hold. Colder though, at an elevation of 785m above sea level, so glad we brought some woolies with us.



Through Waiouru, which houses the Army Museum, presenting a somber display of why nations fight, and what they fight for.



Palmerston North (Palmy) provided a much needed break from driving – and the opportunity of visiting the Victoria Esplanade and the Dugald McKenzie Rose Gardens, voted one of the top five in the world.

Levin tonight, Wellington tomorrow.

Wayside blossoms

Starting to get the pace of this country . . . laid-back, and friendly.

It first came to notice in Auckland. We’d taken the Link bus route a couple of times. We’d passed the stop where drivers exchange places, and were somewhat bemused to hear the departing driver bid the bus full of passengers ‘have a good day’. Not exactly TTC. And then a day later, a lady dismounting the bus with her kiddie called out ‘thank you, driver’. I mean – how can you not like that !

The same courtesies became apparent after we took to the road and left Auckland. New Zealanders really are polite drivers . . .and . . .nobody is really in a rush. How refreshing!

And so it goes . . the same wherever we are. Shops, restaurants, motels. Seems that just about everybody has the time of day for each other. How can we bring this home with us, I wonder.

Well, start by ‘smelling the roses’ I guess. Speaking of which, there is an abundance of wild flowers growing along the byways and highways here in the North Island. Guessing it’s the season, and the tropical climate, but most certainly more colourful and varied than back home. Can’t remember the last time I spied bamboo growing along the roadside in Ontario . . .

Driving Creek Railway, Coromandel, New Zealand

One man’s dream . . . The Driving Creek Railway. Carved out of the side of a 250m hillside, Barry Bickell’s vision has been a 26 year ongoing project, as his railway carves a route through sub-tropical forests, across ravines, round hillsides, under tunnels, through switchbacks and reversing tracks. As the literature says, there is no other train journey like this in the world.

www.drivingcreekrailway.co.nz

The photos speak for themselves . . .