Wednesday, November 13, 2013

1st. to 3rd. November 2013

A new day, and a new country.

We left Zambia on the 1st. November, taking a charter flight (a.k.a. a very small aeroplane!) from Mfuwe in Zambia to Blantyre, Malawi.


Our pilot loaded the baggage . . .


While Mar navigated. . . .


as Jenn and I relaxed in business class.


The weather proved to be even hotter than Zambia, and we spent the first two days chilling out as best we could. But by the 3rd., we were ready to strike out on safari again, a different kind completely from those we’d experienced. This morning it’s a river safari, yet another perspective on the wildlife of the region. Mostly birds, but a good number of animals too.

Our early Malawi morning . . . .


. . and en-route to the river, always something to see from the safety of the jeep. Warthog – a massive male, a baboon surveying his territory, immature Bateaulers doing likewise, an African Hoopoe, and a Nyala (very shy creatures), all before we reach the water!






Along the water edge, we’re treated to an astonishing variety of birds – Osprey; Hadada Ibis; the Water Dikkop; a European migrant, the Common Sandpiper, all the while keeping a lookout for rocks and hippos.






A Western Banded Snake-Eagle keeps an eye on things, especially for this giant Nile Monitor.



Nile Monitors can grow up to two meters in length, and are fearsome predators, hunting on land and in trees. They are the largest lizard in Africa.

This Great White Egret has every reason to stay alert on its nest by the water’s edge. Monitors love eggs and baby chicks!


Not so the elephants, browsing along the bank.


The Emerald Spotted Wood-Dove adds it’s own splash of coulour to the foliage, whilst this young Purple Heron simply blends in.



This Squacco Heron decides flight is safer than sticking around for us to get closer, while the African Jacana seem tame by comparison, and the African Openbill is happy to show his ‘good’ side . . .




. . . until we get a little too close for his comfort and he joins his buddies higher up.



Crocs everywhere, ever present along the wateredge, along with ever watchful hippos.



Meanwhile, our intrepid bush travelers take a well earned morning break.


Back in the boat, and a gentle motor along the shore, watched over by an African Grey Heron, and on a small islet in the middle of the river, a pair of nesting Rock Pranticoles. Our bush guide Samuel became very animated with this sighting, telling us these birds are extremely rare in this Malawi.



Not that the Buffalo could care.


Our water safari comes to an end, and we hand the boat over to the next crew, making our way back to the Lodge in the Majete Wildlife Reserve.












Saturday, November 9, 2013

31st. October


Our last full day at Flatdogs Lodge and an early morning, pre breakfast consultation on a program for the day. It’s decided. The morning will be spent visiting the Tribal Textiles co-operative in Mfuwe, outside the Park, and an evening game drive in the hope of spotting a leopard before we depart tomorrow morning.



Breakfast done, and on the road to the co-op, through villages and rural landscape.







On arrival we’re given a tour of the production line. All designs are created in-house, hand drawn on cotton fabric, painted with vegetable dies, and processed to fix the colours and render them proof against fading and running when laundered.







Then, inevitably, the co-op store! Hard to resist.



The road back to the Park, and evidence that creativity exists outside the co-op.



A touch more browsing in local shops . . . .


. . . and back to the Treehouse for a lunch break, Elephants, giraffes and warthogs all sharing the waterhole.


Off on our last safari in Zambia, an afternoon drive, looking for the elusive leopard. Plenty of other wildlife . . . my favourite, the Thornicroft’s giraffe – this particular species only found in this small pocket in Africa. Quietly grazing, and clearly content with her meal.



Meanwhile, African Crowned Cranes seek out their evening meal on the riverbank, while the Crowned Hornbill wait patiently for his dinner opportunity.



Then, just as the sun begins to sink below the horizon, our guide is distracted by loud cries of alarm from baboons. Surging forward in the jeep, he drives us to the spot, and there, deep in the undergrowth . . . .


four leopards! Our bush guide Robbie is very, very excited. He has only ever encountered a maximum number of three, and here are four! A male, a female and two cubs.

It appears they have just woken from their afternoon siesta, and being nocturnal predators, and getting ready for their night hunt. The cubs are more interested in playing with each other . . .




by which time, the noise of the baboons has attracted others on safari, and the leopards now have a keen audience.


Mother knows best, and the female rounds up her cubs for an evening of learning how to hunt.




They blend into the tall grass, as the sun finally sets over our last safari in Zambia.