5th November 2013

Gosh – all too soon this is our last full day on safari!
The day breaks with a cloud cover, a blessing really, as temperatures are still in the high 30s.
This morning we’re going to attempt to locate and view a rhino, the only one of the ‘big five’ we’ve not been privileged to see.
It really has been an astonishing vacation, and about as close as you can get to the wild without pulling a Tarzan/Jane stunt, and returning to nature.
So this morning, it’s up early, a light breakfast, and the three of us into the jeep, with Samuel our trusty guide.
As a game reserve, the 70,000 hectare Majete is still in the process of being re-stocked after all of the big game was cleared out in the 70s/80s, so our chances of sighting rhino are slim.
However, birds do not need restocking, and they’re everywhere for those who want to see, and with a good guide!

The Brown-headed Parrot, hard to see unless pointed out . . .

. . . not so, with their brilliant colours, the African Pygmy Kingfisher, the Brown-hooded Kingfisher, and with his size, the Black-headed heron, who perches, flys, lands then takes off again . . ah, decisions, decisions.

Much harder to spot, an African Barred Owlet, one of the smallest of the species.

On the other hand, the Trumpeter Hornbill doesn’t care who sees him.

Lower down at ground level, the Leopard Tortoise makes his way, one of the ‘small five’.

The Marabou Stork is the larges of its species, up to 60 inches tall, and counts itself as part of the clean-up crew, along with vultures, feeding on carrion.

A Martial Eagle perches on the lookout for prey, while Wahlberg’s Eagle prefers an airborne hunt.

Scratching around at ground level, the African Pipit, Arnott’s Chat on the lookout for bugs, the Lesser Masked Weaver doing likewise a little higher, and a migrant European Bee-eater.

A Yellow Billed Kite floats by, and a Pied Kingfisher skims the surface of the river

The river, quiet, peaceful, away from human bustle, tree hosting orchids

. . and what’s this? Our Lodge hosting us for a riverside breakfast!

No rhino, but a perfect way to end our safari adventures. It only remains, reluctantly, to head back and pack for the long journey home.

4th November 2013

A different kind of safari walk today, and the heat less intense as the sun disappears behind a welcomed cover of cloud. Today, we’re planning a stroll along the riverbank, in the hope of spotting a black rhino perhaps. Rhinos have been decimated in Africa, the victims of intense poaching for their horns, highly valued in China and other parts of Asia. In Majete Wildlife Reserve however, they have been reintroduced, and anti-poaching measures taken to guard and increase their numbers.

But apart from rhinos, there is nothing too large or small that escapes the eye of our guide, Samuel.

Under the gaze of the Red-Billed Hornbill, we traverse the bush past a Greater Blue-eared Glossy Starling, almost stepping on a red Velvet Mite. These little critters, half the size of your small fingernail, emerge from the ground in great numbers at the first hint of rain, in search of food. Their bright colour is a warning to other creatures not to eat them!

A pair of Bohm’s Bee-eaters enjoy snacking on a dragonfly, a rarely sighted Little Bee-eater looks on, and an African Green Pigeon picks out ripe fruit in a fig tree.

Arriving at the Shire River, we’re greeted by the usual family of hippos. Who is watching who?

Our old friend the Hamerkop inhabits shore in search of a meal, while the Cardinal Woodpecker seeks his in trees, and we almost miss a Yellow-throated Petronia.

More down to earth, an Impala family give us the stare, and a Bateleur joins a couple of White-backed Vultures on their perch. A male Impala looks impassive, and we head back to the lodge we are suddenly presented with an impressive view of a Sable antelope, a shy and elusive creature, the largest of the African antelope family.

An African Grey Hornbill looks on as we traverse the rope-bridge to the Lodge with more confidence than ever.

Our Lodge is a haven for reptiles such as the Rainbow Skink, but they don’t bother us on our balcony overlooking the Shire River. The main Lodge is located on a small rise above the riverbank, with each chalet nestled in the ajoining bush.

The spectacular view of the River from the Lodge lounge.

1st. to 3rd. November 2013

A new day, and a new country.

We left Zambia on the 1st. November, taking a charter flight (a.k.a. a very small aeroplane!) from Mfuwe in Zambia to Blantyre, Malawi.

Our pilot loaded the baggage . . .

While Mar navigated. . . .

as Jenn and I relaxed in business class.

The weather proved to be even hotter than Zambia, and we spent the first two days chilling out as best we could. But by the 3rd., we were ready to strike out on safari again, a different kind completely from those we’d experienced. This morning it’s a river safari, yet another perspective on the wildlife of the region. Mostly birds, but a good number of animals too.

Our early Malawi morning . . . .

. . and en-route to the river, always something to see from the safety of the jeep. Warthog – a massive male, a baboon surveying his territory, immature Bateaulers doing likewise, an African Hoopoe, and a Nyala (very shy creatures), all before we reach the water!

Along the water edge, we’re treated to an astonishing variety of birds – Osprey; Hadada Ibis; the Water Dikkop; a European migrant, the Common Sandpiper, all the while keeping a lookout for rocks and hippos.

A Western Banded Snake-Eagle keeps an eye on things, especially for this giant Nile Monitor.

Nile Monitors can grow up to two meters in length, and are fearsome predators, hunting on land and in trees. They are the largest lizard in Africa.

This Great White Egret has every reason to stay alert on its nest by the water’s edge. Monitors love eggs and baby chicks!

Not so the elephants, browsing along the bank.

The Emerald Spotted Wood-Dove adds it’s own splash of coulour to the foliage, whilst this young Purple Heron simply blends in.

This Squacco Heron decides flight is safer than sticking around for us to get closer, while the African Jacana seem tame by comparison, and the African Openbill is happy to show his ‘good’ side . . .

. . . until we get a little too close for his comfort and he joins his buddies higher up.

Crocs everywhere, ever present along the wateredge, along with ever watchful hippos.

Meanwhile, our intrepid bush travelers take a well earned morning break.

Back in the boat, and a gentle motor along the shore, watched over by an African Grey Heron, and on a small islet in the middle of the river, a pair of nesting Rock Pranticoles. Our bush guide Samuel became very animated with this sighting, telling us these birds are extremely rare in this Malawi.

Not that the Buffalo could care.

Our water safari comes to an end, and we hand the boat over to the next crew, making our way back to the Lodge in the Majete Wildlife Reserve.